Author: James Glazebrook

  • The Dummkopf’s Guide to Subletting

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    When you arrive in Berlin, chances are you’ll end up in a flatshare or a sublet. While we’ve no experience of the former, having too many things (and cats) to squeeze into a single room, we can impart some wisdom about the latter. On paper subletting is straightforward – you pays your money (bills included) and move into an apartment which is set up with everything you’ll need for your first few months in Berlin. In reality, it’s anything but simple.

    Here are some tips to help you circumnavigate the surprisingly tricksy waters of subletting:

    Plant

    www.passiveaggressivenotes.com

    DON’T TOUCH ANYTHING!

    Berliners may be liberal compared to other Germans, but the fact that you are looking after their home means they expect you to take extra-special care of it. They might act all cool and “whatever” and “mi casa su casa” but they expect to find it exactly how they left it (if not cleaner). When the tenants of our first sublet returned, they grilled us on the whereabouts of a mouldy old bathmat, a bowl made out of banana skins (something I think we would remember seeing) and some missing coathangers. Because, in their minds, we moved in, used their stuff and put it back in all the wrong places. Cheeky, huh?

    WATER THE PLANTS!

    It’s not enough that Berlin is one of the greenest cities in Europe (with 2,500 public green spaces!); its residents are all about bringing the outside indoors. They all have plants, and they love those plants – even more than we love our cats, which is worrying. So when we asked one tenant what we could do with plants that may have been poisonous to our kitties, we should have known that the response “I don’t care” meant something like “leave them with my neighbours” not, say,”just throw them in the trash”. Oopsie!

    DON’T LOSE THE KEYS!

    Keys

    www.passiveaggressivenotes.com

    So we’re probably sounding like nightmare guests right about now. This one’s my bad. Within our first month, I’d managed to drop a set of keys down those grates that are conveniently located in front of every door in Berlin. The set with the keys to the post box attached – so we had to replace that as well as trying to replace the keys. You should know: the chunky keys to the front door of your building, with the ID number on, are basically impossible to replace (I think the tenant has to submit an application to the building manager). So, as we were helpfully told at the latest handover, “if you’re going to lose a key, don’t lose this one” – as he handed it to us, attached to the rest of our single set of keys.

    DON’T EXPECT TO HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED!

    All Berliners are, to some degree, hippies. That’s why they live here and not, say, downtown Manhattan. That’s why they all have plants, and that’s why they need very little else. Pretty early on, we faced up to the fact that a dishwasher is a luxury, but here are just a few of the things we were amazed that people could live without: a kettle; a toaster; a can opener and, more importantly, a bottle opener; curtains; warm showers. We did, however, find plenty of dirty socks and underwear, and healthy chunks of hair clogging up the drain of that freezing cold shower. Nice.

    DON’T GET COMFORTABLE!

    The actual tenants of your sublet are going to be back before you know it. Even if it’s not plain sailing, chances are you’ll fall in love with your nice big (compared to London or New York) apartment, and your new life in it. Just bear in mind, you’ll probably burn through another four of these before you finally settle down, so don’t get attached!

    PS for major LOLS from the tenant’s point of view, check out this great blog on Vice from someone whose neighbour sublet his Berlin apartment while he was away.

    9 Responses to “The Dummkopf’s Guide to Subletting”

    1. […] how to get a visa, where to get a social security number for work, how to tackle the job market and subletting, to sorting out your banking and good places to hang out for networking. Clients are emailed a list […]

    2. […] and hooked up with the internet. (Although they also come with strings attached – see our Dummkopf’s Guide to Subletting to avoid potential pitfalls!) Start by looking at Craigslist – as long as you don’t pay […]

    3. […] for, but it’s a subject we’ve skirted around in the past. We’ve broken down subletting in Berlin and given forth about creative migration, expat culture and gentrification (phew!), but none of […]

    4. […] probably quite lucky (James and Zoë share their subletting experience in this hilarious Dummkopf’s Guide to Subletting). I don’t want to jinx it so I’m not getting into too much detail for now because […]

    5. Suzy says:

      This is hysterical! Bowl made out of banana skins! Ha!

    6. Luci says:

      Brilliant post!
      We’re currently on our 4th sublet (and just gearing up to either bring the cats over and settle in for longer or return to that NYC apartment). We more or less experienced all that in one or the other apartment. While we don’t have our own lease, we are now proud owners of: a water boiler, coffee maker, bottle opener, can opener… and yes, our very own curtains and curtain rods (make that adjustable shower rods from IKEA that don’t leave a mark on the wall) – and no extra 35 Euro house keys…
      – Luci

      • James says:

        Glad to hear we’re not alone. Having our own apartment (as of yesterday) feels like wearing the Big Boy Pants – exciting but a little scary. I think (totally unbiased) you should stay and bring the cats over!

      • Lola says:

        Supeoirr thinking demonstrated above. Thanks!

    7. Eric Noble says:

      so true my friend!!

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  • Uberlin, R.E.M. and Us

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    Oh hai, R.E.M. fan. You’ve just Googled “Uberlin” in the hopes of finding out what the alt. rock superstars’ new song is all about. Well sorry, but you’ve happened upon a blog about a couple of English ex-pats trying to make a life for themselves in Berlin. But — before you bounce back to the search results — we might be able to shed some light on the city that Michael Stipe is so enamoured with.

    As both R.E.M. and ourselves have learned, Berlin is an easy city to fall in love with. When the band announced that they would record their 15th album in the legendary Hansa Studios (the birthplace of David Bowie’s Berlin Trilogy), they explained that

    Berlin is a pulsing, exciting city with so many varied and distinctive neighborhoods, iconic history all around, great food at all levels and from every corner of the world… an excellent place to set up camp and make a great record.

    Swap out “record” for “life”, and this echoes our feelings exactly. On one level, the name Überlin simply means “about Berlin” (über + Berlin). But, as “über” can also stand for “over”, “above” and “beyond”, this blog is about more than Berlin – and Berlin is more than just a city to us.

    The song “Uberlin” capture the potential beauty of everyday life in a way that few lyricists other than Stipe can. He begins with the routine preparations for an ordinary day (“Hey now, take your pills… make your breakfast… comb your hair and off to work”) and ends up somewhere literally out of this world: “I am flying on a star into a meteor tonight.”

    For us, the turning point comes in the second verse: “take the U-Bahn [underground/subway train] / Five stops, change the station… don’t forget, the change will save you.” Looking back, our move out here four months ago – which seemed so overwhelming at the time – was as simple as changing tracks, switching direction. But it may have saved us.

    The original official video for the song told this wondrous, enigmatic tale by tracking something as mundane as the U-Bahn map itself, or at least a pretty close approximation of it:

    The new (also official) video, directed by English artist Sam Taylor-Wood doesn’t move us quite so much – not least because it was filmed in the part of East London we just moved away from!

    Either Wood didn’t fancy the flight out here, or she’s making a point – transcendent moments like the ones the song describes can take place anywhere, to anyone. While we’d have to agree, it’s here that we have finally found a rewarding life, one full of potential. It’s here that we “walk the streets to feel the ground”. If you want to know what’s so amazing about Berlin, feel free to explore our blog – it’s all we ever talk about! And this might be a good place to start…

    PS – Thanks to Good Hard Working People for bringing the new video to our attention and making us realise that we had to blog about it!

    Edit: the geniuses behind Normal in Shoreditch have uploaded a spoof version of the Taylor-Wood video that’s even more gloriously everyday. Now this makes us homesick:

    11 Responses to “Uberlin, R.E.M. and Us”

    1. […] about the city, so it’s good to see everything represented from minimal techno to R.E.M (with our namesake “Überlin”), the Cabaret soundtrack to… er, “Take My Breath Away” (by LA band Berlin!). […]

    2. maria says:

      I came to this post because of the google search description, declaring it’s not about REM. Still, very interesting post, I wish you good luck with your life in Berlin. I’ve been there twice and still have the feeling that I haven’t seen much of its real soul. Take care.

    3. david says:

      does anybody knows where the film was filmed?

    4. hum3 says:

      Beautiful post, thanx for sharing that.

    5. angel says:

      i think u r very funny.

    6. James says:

      Maybe it’s a cunning marketing ploy. Do anything in/about Shoreditch and you generate automatic hipster buzz. Would’ve thought Notting Hill would be more their scene.

    7. Ingrid says:

      I love the Normal in Shoreditch take on the video. no idea why they filmed the original there, seems odd!

    8. James says:

      Really? I may not know all the details of your situation, but…. Stay!

    9. Luci says:

      Excellent post.
      We’re definitely like-minded souls. Except that we still don’t know if we’re staying or going…
      Thank you for the link back.
      – Luci

    leave a comment

  • Miss / Bliss

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    Absence really does make the heart grow fonder. We were struggling to think of what we missed about London when we made our first return trip a few weeks ago, but now it’s come flooding back. Friends, family, facilities – all the stuff you take for granted when you live with it every day. But for every thing we pine for, we can think of another that it’s bliss to be free from. Hence these two conflicting lists: to paraphrase James Murphy, London, We Love You But You Were Bringing Us Down.

    missbliss_2


    10 Responses to “Miss / Bliss”

    1. So true of any type of move! I guess it all comes down to your outlook and how you choose to look at it. But I agree that we all have moments of being on both sides.

      ps. those pants….I probably never even would have noticed them were it not for the name. too funny.

      • James says:

        Pants? Oh, the jeans? If you saw them you wouldn’t find them funny. Scary, more like.

        You’re so right about the outlook thing. We’re usually very positive about being here, but yes, we have our moments.

        Thanks for the comment!

    2. Lauren says:

      …I will end up looking like a burger! lol
      You’ve got the same feeling I have now I’m living in Antwerp.. surrounded by people speaking a language I don’t know! Some of the older customers are really snooty when I say I can only speak English.. “but, vee are een Ant-ver-pen! *snooty face*” And the news thing and being able to ignor dull whingey conversations.. exc^pt when the woman sitting behind you in the bar is screeching loudly in American drawl like Ruby Wax because she wants to be noticed!.. but having a whole new city to explore.. good! PS. There is a bar round the corner called “Berlin”, I’m going to take a picture of it especailly for you 2. xx

      • James says:

        Yeah, we’d love to see that. Sorry to hear Antwerp isn’t as (superficially) expat friendly as Berlin. Still, when things have settled here, we’ll have to come visit!
        X

    3. […] amazing about Berlin, feel free to explore our blog – it’s all we ever talk about! And this might be a good place to […]

    4. Eric Noble says:

      brilliant work James and it is so true …but even in a few months i think you have made great progress towards becoming a burger or whatever!!!

    5. Ingrid says:

      Haha brilliant post. Indeed Cos is a fair subsitute for Uni Qlo!

    6. James says:

      Damn – I forgot Waitrose… in fact, any supermarket that stocks everything and delivers to your door. The little things, ay?

    7. Suzy says:

      Hey, I like this post.
      I miss Waitrose. Borough Market. Great British Menu. Farmers Markets. Humour. Everyman Cinema. Tolerance and celebration of other cultures.

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  • New Orleans Haus

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    I visited New Orleans back in 2001 and, to my shame, didn’t eat any Cajun or Creole food. In fact, I’m not sure I ate anything, choosing instead to drink my bladderweight in beer until I fell out of my hostel bunk bed. I party so hardy. Anyway, it seems I’ve been given a second chance, because when we moved to Berlin, we settled around the corner from New Orleans Haus. Glowing reviews from the likes of Exberliner have sparked much debate about whether the place really provides an authentic Louisiana eating experience, but the ex-pat-twat naysayers are missing the point: they can eat GUMBO. In BERLIN. And if they happen to be football fans, they can watch the Superbowl there. They can even learn German for free there, if they want to complain about the less-than-ginormous portion sizes in the mutter tongue. I may not be an expert, but I loved the food – especially the crab cakes, cornbread and pecan pie – enjoyed washing it down with a Diesel (beer and coke), and reveled in the welcoming, homely atmosphere. We’ll be going back, real soon.

    New Orleans Haus 1New Orleans Haus 2New Orleans Haus 3

    New Orleans Haus 4New Orleans Haus 5

    One Response to “New Orleans Haus”

    1. Eric Noble says:

      its making me hungry!!! looks a great place..

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  • Soma? So-meh.

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    Soma, the Carsten Höller installation at contemporary art centre Hamburger Bahnhof, is currently Berlin’s hot ticket. Occupying a unique middle ground between art event and Yuletide petting zoo, Soma has something for all ages: reindeer for the kids and hallucinogens for the grown-ups (both frustratingly just out of reach). What it doesn’t have – like much of the post-sixties work on display in the rest of the gallery – is a solid narrative. If you want to find out what Höller’s “scientific experiment” is meant to explore (good luck!), The Guardian recently ran a great review – but what visitors to the exhibition actually walk away with is the tang of deer piss in their nostrils and, in the noggin, a confusing confluence of canary scales, mushroom clocks, mice boxes, and the suspicion that in reality none of these animals are high on their own supply (of urine). Still, Hamburger Bahnhof is well worth a visit, if only to marvel at the stunning architecture of this converted railway station or the occasional flashes of genius (Dan Flavin etc.) in the permanent collection – and Soma made for great photos at least!

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    6 Responses to “Soma? So-meh.”

    1. […] to Soma at Hamburger Bahnhof this weekend. I know… I was less than impressed with it on my first visit, but this time was different – I went along with Rolf and Oona of the Urban Sketchers […]

    2. Sylee says:

      I went with our little girl. The reindeer and canaries left her cold; she spent the whole time looking at the tiny white mouse in one of those tables to the side. (The hidden narrative is always the best!)

    3. Eric Noble says:

      ahhhh !!

    4. Eric Noble says:

      love the pics marvelous!!!

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