Author: James

  • Berlin Burger Tour, Stop 2: White Trash Fast Food

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    Having sampled and scored Berlin Burger International in Neukölln, this week the Berlin Burger Tour rolled into White Trash Fast Food. If you’ve never been, then shame on you – call yourself a travelling hipster expat twat?! Here’s how I described it to The Style King:

    A riot of food, booze and rock n’ roll, this expat hangout is more adult playground than mere restaurant. Lined with gaudy Oriental decorations, the walls of White Trash Fast Food house a tattoo shop, smoking cinema, stage for live music and The Diamond Lounge, home of go-go dancers and DJs like Berlin-based electro shocker Peaches. Wash down the King Elvis Supreme Burger with super strong cocktails or a “bucket o’ beer” and (if you can still stand) rock the night away.

    The connoisseurs among you should also note that, right now, the usual roster of entertainingly-named burgers (Marquis de Fuck burger with Fuck You Fries, anyone?) is joined by an octopus burger. The following photo and analysis comes courtesy of @superglaze: “Tender and tasty, but it could have done with a tartar sauce or something similar to bring the flavour out a bit more.”

    White Trash Octopus Burger

    We überliners were busy either being, or tending to the, ill, so we won’t bore you with our opinions about White Trash. Here instead are the scores and comments from our “judging panel”, and courtesy of Digital Cosmonaut, a couple of photos of them having fun without us :( :
    White Trash Fast Food scores

    “The chili sauce on the meat patty was AWESOME. But to be honest I waited so long for the burger that anything would have tasted amazing – 45 minutes or so I think it was. Too long. So I didn’t tip. The waitress was not happy.”

    “tasty food, big portion, big price”

    “The place was cool, liked the atmopshere and obviously the great company. Food was alright and a bit expensive..”

    “Burger International was better.”

    “fries lukewarm, lower half of bread soggy and crumbling appart due to meat juice, Burger itself was good, meat was very good. i suggest adding a “service” category – service was dead slow, the waitress was crap, took over 30 minutes for drinks to come, took at least an hour for food to arrive.”

    “Paying a cover for a restaurant? Pah!”

    For the price I would have expected more.

    “The burger was thick and meaty, well cooked on the outside, pink on the inside and a nice slab of melted cheese on top. I got extra mayo without a problem when I asked. The bun was too crumbly. It fell apart while I was trying to eat the burger and I ended up having to use a *gasp* knife and fork.”

    Berlin Burger Tour at White Trash Fast Food

    Next stop: ROOM 77! More details here.

    Berlin Burger Crawl is an open group. To find out what’s going on, follow the hashtag #berlinburgertour on Twitter. If you want to get involved, tweet at @uberlinblog, leave us a comment below, or drop us an email. We’re going to have to book tables at some of the more popular/restauranty places, so do let us know if you plan to come!

  • Music Montag: Jahcoozi

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    Jahcoozi

    Jahcoozi are back! And this weekend they’re making a cape out of donated dreadlocks. No, really. Not sure what the cause is, but we’ll support anything that removes dreads from the heads of the crusties that stank up our city. You should check out the installation/concert/commemoration(?) of the erection of the Berlin Wall this Saturday, but for now we’re going to revisit the track that made us fall in love with the Berlin-based booty-bass bpitch act in the first place.

    I don’t need to brag about the East End
    Got the best of both worlds innit in the end.
    Why’s everybody’s chatting bout the LDN?
    When we know what’s going off in the BLN

    Barefoot Skank presents:
    RESURRECTING THE DREAD
    13.08.2011 / Radialsystem / Berlin

    Line-up:
    Jahcoozi (Konzert + Special Performance) // BPitch Control // Berlin
    Robot Koch (live) // Project: Mooncircle // Berlin
    Graciela Maria & Sneaky (live) // Project: Mooncircle // Mexico City, Manchester
    Half-Sick Half-Girl // Sick Girls // Berlin
    Ghettozoid (dj) // One4Ho // London
    DJ Zhao (dj) // Ngomasound // Bejing
    Area Boy (dj) // Barefoot Skank // Moskau
    + tbc

    This article originally appeared on Bang Bang Berlin.

  • Moving to Berlin

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    Practical advice about moving to Berlin is something we’re always asked for, but it’s a subject we’ve skirted around in the past. We’ve broken down subletting in Berlin and given forth about creative migration, expat culture and gentrification (phew!), but none of that will help you decide whether to move to Berlin, or how to go about it. It’s not that we’re trying to stop the place filling up with other expats (honest!), it’s just that – eight months in – we still feel like newbies in a lot of ways. Regardless, we thought we’d share what we’ve learnt so far.

    The best resource we’ve come across is this comprehensive guide to moving to Berlin on the now-defunct Berlin Memory Blog. It was last updated two years ago, but most of it still applies – the city isn’t changing half as fast as some of its residents fear. Use it as your starting point and we’ll bring it up to date and fill in a few gaps here.

    LDN2BLN

    The first thing to note is that rent isn’t as cheap as it was two years ago, at least in the desirable areas. Apartments in Kreuzberg fetch more than 7€ a square metre these days (closer to 10€) and our beloved Graefekiez is now just as expensive than Bergmannkiez. However, neighbouring Neukölln is still cheap(ish), and becoming more and more attractive as hip young people move in and open up bars, cafes, shops etc.

    While rents everywhere remain a fraction of those found in other European capitals like Paris and London, your initial outlay may be considerably more. When you decide to rent an apartment of your own, don’t be surprised if you’re stung with hefty agent fees (typically 2.38 months’ “cold rent”), as well as a month’s rent in advance and another month as a deposit. Costs like this are easily avoided by subletting or  moving into a flatshare, which you probably will when you first arrive.

    Cost of living hasn’t increased much since the Memory Blog guide was last updated – at least for essentials like kebaps, beer and Berghain entry – but one of the costs that could catch you out is health insurance. What you pay depends on how much you earn and what level of cover you need, but we reckon premiums will come out at about 15% of your earnings (if you have a job here, your employer will contribute towards this). Health insurance is mandatory, and if it takes you a while to sort it out, may be backdated to when you first registered as a citizen. If you’re only going to be here a short while, don’t bother; even if you plan to stay here long term, you could save some money by taking your time to register (but you didn’t hear that from us!).

    Berlin - K

    The tax system is fairly complicated here, and largely depends on what you declare your employment status to be, so we’ll just repeat what all the forum threads we’ve read say: get a tax advisor! But even if you pay a lot in taxes, you should be thankful to be earning at all. While unemployment in Germany is currently at a 20-year low of 7%, Berlin routinely records double that (and the rate is especially high among young people). Things are looking up, as the creative industry booms and startups establish themselves here, but the best (and perhaps most obvious) advice we can give is: bring work with you when you move here. We know expats who do the typical Berliner thing of holding down a bunch of casual jobs, and some who’ve blagged benefits, but the only way of guaranteeing a “comfortable” living is with some overseas contracts.

    As for the German language, what you’ll never fully appreciate until you move is here is that you really don’t need to speak German to get by. Most people speak English, and, for the most part, they love the practice. Of course, refusing to learn any German rather defeats the point of living abroad (and makes you a Bad Person), but you will learn much faster once you are living here. What worked for us was a few very basic classes in London supplemented with some CDs, followed up by a course at the Deutsch Akademie in Berlin (very cheap, very intensive, some great teachers). We plan to do a tandem language exchange, and perhaps some private classes, but this was a good start.

    Berlin

    One final piece of (not so practical) advice: JUST DO IT! We procrastinated for about five years waiting for the “perfect time” to make the move, before realising that there’s no such thing. If you love the city or are just sick of the place in which you currently live (or, like us, both), you have nothing to lose by moving to Berlin. Even if it doesn’t work out in the long term, the city is a great place to live even temporarily – and you can go home knowing that you tried something truly extraordinary. See you in the Kiez!

    So…. we hope that’s some help. If you have questions, corrections or other helpful advice to share, feel free to comment below or contact us via email or Twitter. We’d love it if this blog became a place for people to ask questions, and get answers, about moving to – and living in – Berlin.

  • Graefekiez

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    We recently asked our Facebook fans what they wanted to see more of on the blog and the top answer so far (go vote!) has been “cool things to see and do in Berlin”. Now we don’t get out much, and if we do, we don’t stray from our Kiez – but that’s OK, because the area around Graefestrasse in Kreuzberg has everything we need (except for great coffee).

    I decided that a niftybobs way of introducing you to the neighbourhood would be a personalised Google Map marked up with our highlights. As well as a dangerous number of eateries (I’m writing this with a gut-full of ice cream), there are bars, Hard Wax records (which I’m claiming even though its located over the canal), an expert tattooists and – what the what? – a licorice shop??!!

    So have a click around Graefekiez. Let us know if we’ve missed anything, and why not make a map of your area? We’d love to get an insider’s view on other parts of Berlin. Ciao!

    View Graefekiez in a larger map

  • Creative Migration, Expat Culture and Gentrification: An Interview with… Me!

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    It seems less überlin and more look-at-me-Berlin to post an interview with myself, but hear me out! People ask us all the time why we moved to Berlin, and how it feels now that we are here – and that is precisely the subject of this Q&A.

    A little background: a student in Human Geography at Manchester, and fellow music nerd, Rich James (@iceheadache) decided to do a project on the recent creative migration to Berlin. So while his fellow second years were off investigating done-to-death topics, Rich was over here, interviewing expat artists, DJs and journalists from the city’s thriving music scene. I’ve cut out most of the industry-specific stuff, and my worst rambling, so hopefully what remains will be of interest to locals, wannabe Berliners and the curious alike.

    What attracted you to Berlin?

    Me and Zo in Berlin

    Zoë and I in Berlin, on (I think) our second visit to the city

    In part, dance music. We first came over about five years ago and all that like electro-house stuff, like Get Physical, was just breaking. We’d just moved to London [from Newcastle] and liked the big city vibe but it was already getting a bit overwhelming. We thought Berlin was just like London, but with half the people and more space. We went clubbing and everyone was really nice and just there for the music, and there was room to breathe – unlike fabric.

    And that same feeling permeated the rest of the city – bars and coffee shops, for example, locally owned, independent places where everyone’s super nice and welcoming. It just gives a different flavour to the city.

    What’s special about Berlin?

    Everything I’ve just described attracts a special kind of person. You don’t meet many Germans but if you do chances are they moved here, and they’re working in the creative industries or working five different random jobs. You meet a lot of expats but everyone has made the effort to move here because of a love for the city that we all share.

    This amplifies the creative, independent feel of the place. Out of all the European capital cities I’ve been to, Berlin provides a special kind of the creative freedom. It’s not the freedom to get off your face, it’s the economic freedom to do the work you want to do.

    In London you do a 9-5 job and have to commute to it and you have maybe three or four hours in the evening to do what you want to do. But here I can half the work I did back home and still pay the rent – and I can spend the rest of the time writing about music and blogging.

    Working

    What happens when you step off the career ladder

    Do you feel you’re free to do your job without being career motivated, without the need to always make more money?

    Totally. My wife and I do the same work we did in London but there’s less pressure. That’s partly because we’ve “opted out” of the career ladder – it’d be the same if we moved to Australia.

    But it is partly the place as well. It’s simple economics – it’s cheap here because there’s astronomical unemployment. It’s only recently that creative industries have been growing and there aren’t really any other industries here. I’m sure there are people here with proper jobs, earning decent wages, leading normal lives, but if you want to be a banker, for example, you’re going be in Frankfurt.

    So there is less emphasis on career, especially for who come from overseas and live in our isolated little bubble. Most of the people I know have a job and then something they do that they’re passionate about, none of whom you would call careerists.

    You described living in a “bubble” – do you feel like you’ve been accepted into the broader Berlin society?

    It feels like there are two different levels to living here. It’s really easy to come over and meet people who are also expats, and are very welcoming because they’re in the same boat – but they’re still on the outside fringes of society as a whole. The language barrier has a lot to do with that – a little German is enough to get by but you always feel like you’re on the outside.

    berlin welcome

    A Berlin welcome

    There are a lot of people who revel in the whole expat culture, but I worry about not integrating. Every other week there’s news of citizens, especially in Kreuzberg, having meetings or protests about this “problem”. They talk about “party tourists”, especially the English and Swedes – who come over and just get wrecked and leave broken glass all over the streets. People like me and my friends aren’t part of that discussion… yet.

    I’m here for the long term but I still feel like a tourist, just a long-term tourist – particularly because I don’t work in an office somewhere. I don’t know if it’s a problem but it feels like a problem to me, and it’s becoming an issue here. People are starting to weigh up the benefits in terms of the economy and marketing versus the social disruption that it causes.

    We’re here because it’s cheap. You can get a big apartment and pay cheap rent, but it’s a lot to most Berliners – and what’s compounding the problem is that the landlords are taking the piss. We can accept that but in some areas it’s leading to the displacement of the existing population. Kreuzberg has pretty much been gentrified but I think in Neukölln a lot of Turkish families in particular are in danger of being pushed out.

    I don’t want to be blasé but I think this is just what happens to cities. Back in London this has always happened, and it’s still happening. But because in Berlin this has only happened over the last 20 years, it’s been accelerated – it’s not like London where this has been happening since the industrial revolution. What’s uniquely Berlin about the situation is the social awareness and concern shown by citizens, who are looking out for one another.

    us again

    You mentioned that you’ve only lived here four months, but can you imagine staying in Berlin for a long time to come?

    Well, we’re here for at least a year. We were subletting until this point and now we’ve got a proper flat for a year. We’ve had to buy all our own furniture and I’m not leaving that behind!

    I couldn’t put a time limit on it… When we moved to London we were like, “We’ll see how this goes…” But then you’d see people on the tube who were about 50 or 60 and they looked beaten down and miserable, and you knew there was a time limit on it. However, if things stay as they are we could live here forever.

    But if people like me keep moving here, pushing up the rent and filling up the space maybe we’ll have to move. I think we’ve made this work so we could potentially live anywhere in the EU – but we wouldn’t want to live anywhere else.

    Anything else you’d feel like we need to know about Berlin?

    I always want to tell people to move here but I don’t want to ruin it for the rest of us… so don’t!