überlin

Dirty South

by James Glazebrook

bootless along wall

There’s no denying the awesome power of the German Frühstück (zum Bespiel) but, as far as we’re concerned, no one does brunch like the Americans. That’s why we headed to Dirty South in Friedrichshain, a restaurant and bar opened by the Philadelphians behind Cupcake Berlin. A down-home diner with a punk twist, Dirty South serves up comfort food for homesick expats and Yankophiles like us.

Zoë opted for poached eggs served with a scrummy biscuit and real(!) bacon, while I went with an epic breakfast burrito – a heavenly heart attack in a wrap! They were out of Brewdog, so I washed everything down with a lovely bottle of HOLYSHIT, from Berlin brewery Schoppe Bräu. If you miss American food, and friendly American service – or if you just want a cool place to hang out and fill your faces – then Dirty South is the place!

photos on wall

flyers on wall

bottle of beer on table

brunch and breakfast burrito

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Berlin Portrait: Dolly Demoratti of Mother Drucker

by James Glazebrook

We think that the best way to discover Berlin is through the eyes of the people who live here. For our Berlin Portrait series, we’re asking artists, musicians and other interesting Berliners to introduce us their corner of the city. Discover creative Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain with Dolly Demoratti, owner of the Mother Drucker print studio.

Dolly Demoratti Portrait in her Urbanspree Studio

So tell us: how did you end up in Berlin?

I followed a girl out here. I met somebody in London, and they said they were coming here in a few months’ time, so I ended up quitting my job and coming out here. It felt like the right time to do it… as it happens, she’s back in England and I’m out here! But it worked out really well for me, and I’m glad I made that leap.

And how long have you been here?

About three or four years… I purposefully don’t keep count. I feel slightly embarrassed because I still know so little German, so people always ask me, “how long have you been here for?” and I’ve been saying “a year” for about three years now!

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Do you feel settled here?

I definitely feel like it’s my home. I’m very happy here and I think I have more friends than I did in London, and I have a much nicer way of life. I’m working on what I always wanted to work on, which wouldn’t have been possible in London. My best friends are German, so I guess I am quite integrated here.

I don’t speak good German, which does make me feel like a bit of an outsider – but there are so many people passing through Berlin, staying for one or two years, that it’s easy to not speak the language and still feel involved in what’s happening here.

What’s the best thing about living in Berlin?

That I get to do the thing that I always want to, and get to have a studio of my own. When I was about 16, I built a darkroom in my bedroom – I’ve had an obsession with printing in all its forms since a young age. So now to be here, and have a studio – with my own printing press – is just great.

Dolly Demoratti Portrait in her Urbanspree Studio

And what are your favourite places in Berlin?

Urban Spree, where my studio is, is developing all the time. It’s an art space, with an “atelier”, sharing vibe, and now a venue for gigs and parties. They asked me to move in here before Urban Spree had opened, and even knocked down a wall for me! I had the first exhibition in the main hall, which was completely trashed – of all these shiny, perfect bicycles hanging in this fucked-up space…

Dolly Demoratti Portrait in her Urbanspree Studio

Markthalle Neun on Eisenbahnstraße is fantastic. I had my first studio on that street, right when they re-opened the market. I really liked the community vibe of what Markthalle Neun did, going around the block asking everyone what they should do with the space – it was a community decision. People were proposing different ideas like – someone wanted to open a kind of Victorian swimming pool – and in the end, the consensus was to take it back to its original use: a food market. Any kind of restoration of anything, rather than scrapping it or changing or modernising it… I just love it when things are taken back to their original state.

Dolly Demoratti Portrait at Urbanspree

The Künstlerhaus Bethanien is another building that survived the war. They have the most fantastic print studio there, which so many people don’t know about. Downstairs, it’s almost a museum of old machinery to do with printing, lots of letterpresses and cutting machines, and it just smells so old! You can only get there via one lift in the print studio, which no one knows is there.

…and I go to Tempelhof most Sundays, to either exercise or just cruise around on my bike. I love it out there…

Dolly Demoratti Portrait at Urbanspree

Dolly Demoratti Portrait against Fingaz Grafitti

Dolly Demoratti Portrait sitting in front Fingaz Grafitti

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Dolly is organising Druck Berlin 2013, an art festival focused on screen printing, at Stadtbad Wedding. Check out the Druck Berlin website for full details.

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Volkspark Friedrichshain

by James Glazebrook

Volkspark Friedrichshain Fairy Tale Fountain

One for when (if?) the weather improves! Volkspark Friedrichshain is a beautiful park in the otherwise unremarkable area between Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichshain. Officially opened in 1848, the park continued to evolve well into the Cold War, when the DDR used the rubble of bombed-out East Berlin to build two artificial mini-mountains, one 48m and one 78m high. The larger one, Große Bunkerberg, is worth scaling if you’re feeling energetic, but don’t expect a view from the top – the trees that now grow there obscure what could be a wonderful panorama of the city.

Volkspark Friedrichshain trees

Make sure you don’t miss the Märchenbrunnen, or Fairy Tale Fountain, which depicts the characters of the Grimm brother’s stories and was one of the few parts of the park to emerge from World War Two unscathed. For a bit of history and a great video about the Fairy Tale Fountain, check out Moving Postcard, and make sure to visit Volkspark Friedrichshain as soon as the rainclouds clear.

Volkspark Friedrichshain Fairy Tale Fountain French Bulldog

Volkspark Friedrichshain Fairy Tale Fountain statue close up

Volkspark Friedrichshain Fairy Tale Fountain French Bulldog close up

Volkspark Friedrichshain Fairy Tale Fountain statue

Volkspark Friedrichshain red flowers

Volkspark Friedrichshain French Bulldog

Volkspark Friedrichshain du wunderbäre

Volkspark Friedrichshain statue

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